v Try collecting
grey water and use it for your garden needs (e.g., spring water collecting
under your home, dish water, etc.).
v Turn off
water fountains and features that require water replenishment.
v Take shorter
showers, not baths.
v Fully load
dishwashers and washers and use shortest settings.
v Put covers on
pools and spas (or any sizeable water container) when not in use to reduce
evaporation.
v Do not run
sink water when doing dishes, brushing teeth, shaving, etc.
v No car
washing, power washing, or other elective water use.
v Fix leaks,
broken/misdirected sprinklers.
For the full article from the University of Idaho, Kootenai County, on Basic Lawn Care, please use link:
https://www.uidaho.edu/-/media/UIdaho-Responsive/Files/Extension/county/Kootenai/BasicLawnCareDontBagItCombined.pdf
Some highlights of the article:
WATERING
Installing automatic sprinkler systems in the home landscape has become increasingly popular over the past few years. If timed properly, they are an immensely convenient and time saving method of watering. On the other hand, setting the system to water often and shallowly can be detrimental to the lawn.
Watering should be done before 2:00 pm in sunny areas of the yard, and before noon in shaded areas. Early morning is an ideal time to water. This allows leaf surfaces to dry off completely before nightfall, helping to decrease the development of insect and disease problems. Water deeply and less often to promote deep roots. Apply between 1”-1 1/2” of water weekly, depending on weather conditions, soil type, and landscape terrain (slopes, etc.). Soil should be moistened to a depth of about six inches. To test sprinkler output, place empty tuna fish cans or cat food tins along the water arc to see how long it takes your sprinkler to put down this amount of water. Output is greater the farthest point from the sprinkler head. (You can allow the cans to fill 1/4” or 1/2” and multiply accordingly.) One application a week may be all that is necessary, or you can divide the time into two or three applications per week. Also, take into consideration the areas where sprinklers overlap an area, and that sprinkler output varies. During hot weather, increase the water to 2” per week and apply more frequently if necessary. Visual clues that the lawn needs watering are when the grass begins to take on a blue-green color or has lost its spring, leaving an imprint behind when walked upon.
MOWING
The recommended mowing height for bluegrass lawns is 2 1/2”-3” high. The leaf blade is the food factory, and mowing shorter than this causes stress to the lawn and depletes the root system of energy. Taller grass also helps shade the soil, slowing the drying out process. It encourages deeper roots, giving the plants more staying power during drought periods and helps suppress weeds by preventing the seed to soil contact necessary for germination. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn is a very beneficial practice. The clippings act as a constant source of slow release fertilizer as well as supplying additional moisture to the lawn. The two exceptions to the blade height and bagging suggestions are the first mowing in the spring and the last mowing in the fall. It is recommended to mow a little shorter, no less than 2”, and to bag the clippings at those times to help discourage lawn diseases. Mow often enough that it is not necessary to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at one time. If you’re leaving piles or rows of grass, you are not mowing often enough. Alternate mowing patterns to prevent wear patterns, and to encourage grass blades to stand up straight. Keep mowing blades sharp at all times.
